TRAVEL

Loring the Natural Wonders of Ninh Binh, Vietnam

We heard many travel stories from travelers who were in Ninh Binh. Each story was unique and we forgot all of them once we smelled the fresh air filled with heavenly scent coming from an unknown direction. All we could think of was “Where is it coming from?”. We settled on the obvious answer “flowers” without any in the site and moved down the sidewalk. It has been a while since we were in Ninh Binh, but it feels like yesterday. Come to think of our short time there, peace and joy appear. It is always a marvel to see the lush natural world where people work hand in hand with nature. Now please, join us in loring the natural wonders of Ninh Binh, Vietnam.

Homestays offer an authentic experience of Ninh Binh

Working With the Land

Many people in the area earn their living by producing food. Many of them said no to dirty food in 2016 and turned away from harmful chemical agricultural products. Instead, they went back to the roots and joined forces with animals. For example, duck-patrol does marvels for pest control in rice fields. Farmers likely keep ducks for more than just hunting slugs and other critters. As far as we know ducks lay eggs and their sacrifice leaves behind some tasty proteins. Incredible Peking duck from Red Rose Restaurant in Bangkok is still very much alive in our memory.

One of the most important crops in Vietnam is sugarcane.
Rice is the main food source and only observing farmers at work can be mesmerizing.

We also must mention the Ninh Binh delicacy – goats. Goats are perfect for steep limestone mountains that no one can reach at least not for fun. However, enjoyment is by the Ngo Dong River where people fish for food and money.

Growing rice is not an easy task
You can see a roasted goat on the side of the road
Don’t worry lovely little piggy, we come in peace.

Peace & Quiet at Ninh Binh

Only when we got to the Ninh Binh, we realized how much we missed the silence. Finally, our ears got a break from the big city uproar! The drastic change was almost scary at first, but we welcomed it with all our hearts. On top of that, we were able to breathe deeper and taste the sweetness of unpolluted air. Little did we know this was just the beginning of our serene time in the countryside.

The old cemetery in Tam Coc, Ninh Binh
Because of the large limestone mountains people started calling Ninh Binh the “Halong in the land”

Sometimes, maybe overly serene… How could we know that whenever we wanted some fruit from the market, we needed to wake up a seller to make a purchase? Honestly, we felt bad waking up people for some fruit, but luckily, there was always one who was awake. 

Limestone Paradise
This is the perfect spot for morning stretches.
Cinderella was that you?

Ninh Binh Can Be Active & Attractive

Soon we shared the need for a power nap, just like locals. All the running around from one pagoda to the other takes a toll. Who wouldn’t want to see the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia or the legendary Bich Dong Pagoda? Then there are 500 steps leading to the Hang Mua viewpoints. That goes if you leave out the caves! Since we came this far, we had to see it all.

600-year-old Bich Dong pagoda with a lotus pond at its doorsteps.
If necessary, the water buffalo can hold a breath for up to five minutes.

Of course, we only scratched the surface of an area where the first Vietnamese capital, Hoa Lu, used to be. Once we started to feel overwhelmed by the beauty we hopped in a boat. A boat ride in Ninh Binh is a must no matter the waiting time. Supposedly, the boat must be full to get going, but anything can be arranged for the right price. Most likely you’ll get to experience a smooth ride powered by old feet. Some say that people use their feet to row because their hands are tired. Whatever the reason, we were preoccupied by the beauty around us. Finally, we understood why people call Ninh Binh the “Ha Long Bay on Land”.

Are goats guardians of old graveyards?
Do you prefer peace or…
…fuss?

Past & Present of Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh is one of the increasingly rare places on Earth where a company of 1,000-year-old living beings is still possible. A handful of silent giants call Cuc Phuong National Park home. To clarify, I am talking about trees. And here around you will see some amazing examples.

The project of Hoa Lu University started in 2007 and who knows if it will be finished.
Someone has big plans for the future home.

No doubt, the first Vietnamese national park is the most important site for the country’s biodiversity. Like many rural gems, also Ninh Binh focuses on agrotourism to represent the local traditional culture. All we can say is that we hope the practices are truly kept in the spirit of the past. True to the practice that improves land year after year. This way the fairytales of the past can become a wonderful reality for future generations. Sadly, monoculture is still the most popular way of growing food, and the sea of pineapples is a highly desired background for countless selfies. 

At Cuc Phuong National Park every curve is more beautiful.
And even after the curve…
Trees like this will awe you here in Ninh Binh.

Final Thought

It is impossible to top the 50 shades of green surrounded by limestone peaks with places of worship in between. As luck would have it, words do shape-shift and one can admire beauty in its raw form in many different ways. Every angle tells a different story, one impossibly different than the other. Our goal was to get immersed in Mother Nature and forget the rest.

Roots paint a picture of natural resilience.

We went to great lengths to skip the unpleasant label “walking ATM” that sticks to all tourists and got a better deal because of that. Our pact was about chilling in front of the lake with limestone mountains around it, simply existing and embracing the stunning surroundings. It also means tasty food and no speeding heart rate. No wonder that Hanoians like weekends in Ninh Binh, who wouldn’t?

Openings are wherever you notice them and this one is no exception.
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