Sour milk and buckwheat mash with cracklings.
Cheese from Velika Planina gave us a good reason to slow down during our stay on the plateau. We tasted young and matured cheeses, chose one to take back to our cabin, and stayed for herbal tea with the shepherd. Alongside the cheese, a bowl of cold sour milk with warm buckwheat žganci made a memorable introduction to the food of this mountain area. For anyone exploring Slovenian food and regional specialties, this is a place to leave some room in the day for eating.
Sour milk with buckwheat žganci is a traditional shepherd’s meal on Velika Planina. On a menu, look for kislo mleko and ajdovi žganci. The latter is a cooked buckwheat-flour dish, often translated as buckwheat mush or spoonbread. Our serving came with pork cracklings, known locally as ocvirki.
The žganci were warm and compact, while the sour milk was cold and refreshing in the summer heat. I enjoyed that combination of temperatures and textures as much as the dish itself. It was filling, straightforward comfort food, with no need for an elaborate presentation.
Our cheese tasting included both young and matured varieties. They were quite different from the cheeses we usually bought at a deli, and meeting the cheesemaker made the experience more personal. Choosing just one took some thought. Eventually, we bought a cheese to enjoy later in our cabin.
Before we headed back, the shepherd made us herbal tea. While it cooled, we shared a toast with homemade spirits. The cheese was a pleasure, and so was being in no hurry to leave. That small pause remains one of my favorite memories of our stay on Velika Planina.
Trnič is the area’s recognizable pear-shaped cheese, made from curd, cream, and salt. Its surface is decorated using carved wooden stamps called pisave. The tradition belongs to Velika, Mala, and Gojška Planina. Trnič is a particular type of cheese, so the name does not describe every cheese made on the plateau.
According to local tradition, shepherds made trnič in matching pairs, keeping one and giving the other to a sweetheart as a sign of love and faithfulness. It also has a place in the kitchen: the dried cheese can be grated over dishes such as pasta or risotto. Its story makes it an interesting specialty to ask about when exploring the region’s food.
Summer is the best time to plan a visit around the shepherds and their dairy products. The grazing season usually runs from June to September, depending on the weather. Confirm opening times and dairy availability with the hut or local tourism office before making a special trip for cheese. For broader travel ideas beyond the plateau, see our guide to what to see and do in Slovenia.
| Detail | Information checked in October 2026 |
|---|---|
| Location | Velika Planina, above Kamnik in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Slovenia. |
| Food to look for | Local cheeses, kislo mleko, ajdovi žganci, and trnič. Ask individual producers what they have available. |
| Season | Shepherds and grazing cattle are usually on the plateau from June to September, subject to weather. |
| Prices | Confirm cheese and meal prices directly with the hut or producer. |
| Access and operating information | Official Velika Planina website |
Trnič is a decorated, pear-shaped cheese traditionally made in the Velika, Mala, and Gojška Planina area from curd, cream, and salt. Shepherds traditionally made it in pairs as a token of affection. The dried cheese can be grated over food.
Plan around the summer grazing season, usually June to September, depending on weather. Check with the hut or the local tourism office before traveling specifically for a tasting, since availability varies.
It depends on the preparation. Our serving included pork cracklings. If you want a vegetarian version, ask whether both the žganci and their dressing can be prepared without pork cracklings, bacon, or lard.
The tasting and hospitality described above are our own experience. Background and seasonal information were checked against these official sources in October 2026.
Fine dining can be extraordinarily accommodating, though every kitchen has its limits. A tasting menu…
Our first meal with Chef Uroš Štefelin was at Vila Podvin. The restaurant in Mošnje…
Melaka is easy to remember through red colonial buildings, ornate temples and plates of Nyonya…
Dining in a castle has carried a certain prestige for centuries. Once, such tables were…
Afternoon tea has a way of making a simple wardrobe decision feel unnecessarily complicated. There…
Could Otočec Castle be the most romantic hotel in Slovenia? The first view certainly makes…