Shepherd's settlement that is still a summer destination for few shepherds and their herd.
Before setting off on longer travels, Ian and I chose Slovenia for a trial run together. Summer was coming to an end, so we headed for the mountains and spent a week on Velika Planina, Slovenia’s high pasture near Kamnik. Ian had plenty to photograph, and I found myself becoming increasingly interested in the animals and people who shared the plateau. We had come to test a way of traveling; we left with stories about a very different way of living.
Our week on Velika Planina gave us time to rest before the travels ahead. The green pastures and the sound of cowbells became part of our days, and we even started meditating in the mornings. There was something reassuring about beginning the day there without needing to rush into the next thing.
We also filmed scenes of the plateau and learned about the herdsmen’s work and customs. At that early stage of Wild ’n’ Free, we were still finding out what we wanted our travels to become. Spending time with someone whose summer revolved around his herd gave us plenty to think about.
One of the people we met was an older herdsman who looked after cows and made dairy products. He spoke about the animals as individuals, each with habits and a character he knew well. I had arrived with a fairly narrow idea of a quiet life in the mountains, and his knowledge and openness soon made me reconsider it. I had never heard anyone talk about cows in quite this way, and both of us wanted to hear more.
He told us that the cow leading his herd was 15 years old. Each spring, as the snow melted, she became restless and seemed ready to return to the fresh grass above the valley. In his account, the herd took the roughly four-hour climb to its summer pasture in stride. Once on the plateau, he opened the fence at sunrise and let the cows head out to graze.
According to the herdsman, the cows usually returned on their own at around 5:00 p.m. He described giving them his home-baked bread as an afternoon treat, and he knew which animals needed a little more patience. Some, he said, preferred a slower start in the morning. Others were more sensitive to his manner, and he had a story ready to illustrate the point.
Once, while milking a cow, he told her she was as dirty as a pig. In his telling, she immediately stopped giving milk and continued to sulk for days. It certainly made me pay more attention to the personalities he described, and to how closely he followed each animal’s habits.
When the cows needed collecting, he had help from his dog, Pika. He told us she knew the animals by name and could bring back the whole herd or fetch a particular cow. Away from work, there was room for play; when he sent her out to gather the cattle, she knew what was expected. Listening to him describe that partnership was one of my favorite parts of our time on Velika Planina.
Velika Planina suited us because we had time for more than a quick look at the scenery. A week gave us space to rest, photograph the landscape, and listen to someone talk about the work that kept him there each summer. The cows stopped being an anonymous part of the view. After hearing so much about their individual characters, I decided that the next person to call me a cow might have trouble making it sound like an insult.
If this side of the plateau appeals to you, our companion article on what to do on Velika Planina shares more from the trip, including our walk up and time among the huts. For an upcoming visit, use the operator’s current information alongside that earlier account, especially when planning transport.
| Detail | Information checked in October 2026 |
|---|---|
| Location | Velika Planina, near Kamnik, Slovenia. |
| Summer herding season | Generally June to September. The herd’s departure is often around mid-September and depends on conditions. |
| Cable car access | The lower cable car station is in the Kamniška Bistrica Valley. Check the operating notice before traveling. |
| Maintenance notice | Checked October 27, 2026: the operator lists the cable car and chairlift as closed from October 15 to November 15, 2026, for annual maintenance. |
| Respecting the pasture | Stay on marked paths, leave cattle plenty of space, and carry your litter back down. |
| Official visitor information | Current timetable and operating notices |
The summer grazing season usually begins in June and continues into September. Herds often leave around the middle of September, depending on the weather and pasture conditions, so their presence is not guaranteed on a particular date.
No. The operator asks visitors not to feed cattle, to watch them from a safe distance, and never to pass between a cow and her calf. The herdsman’s bread story describes his own routine with his herd, not an activity for visitors.
Yes. Dogs must stay on a leash and be kept away from grazing animals. Pika was the herdsman’s working dog; visiting dogs should remain under their owners’ control.
Practical information checked October 27, 2026. The personal account and the herdsman’s stories come from our earlier visit.
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