This man is actually the only one who keeps the tradition alive and it fits him beautifully.
Wondering what to do in Velika Planina? Start with a walk among the shepherds’ huts, stop for local dairy products, and leave yourself time to enjoy the mountain. This plateau in Slovenia’s Kamnik-Savinja Alps suited us for exactly that reason. We hiked up, found the quiet we had been looking for, and spent time with our cameras without having to hurry to the next attraction.
At first, the landscape reminded me of The Sound of Music. Once we started exploring, the place became much more interesting in its own right: the huts, the shepherds, and the food all belonged together. You can come for a day or rent a cabin and stay longer. For us, the chance to slow down was a large part of the appeal.
Walking, mountain food, photography, and learning about shepherd life are the main reasons to visit Velika Planina. A few hours give you an introduction; staying overnight leaves more room for quiet walks and changing light.
The settlement’s low-roofed huts are the obvious starting point. In summer, this is also a working pasture, with herdsmen tending cattle. The grazing season generally runs from June to September, depending on the weather. Give the animals space, keep to marked paths, and remember that a photogenic hut may also be someone’s workplace.
For more background, the Preskar Museum introduces life in a traditional shepherd’s hut during its seasonal opening. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows stands above the settlement and can be included in your walk. Our separate story of our time on Velika Planina gives a more personal account of the shepherds we met.
We tried cheese offered by the shepherds, and it deserves a place in your plans alongside the walking. Our separate article on cheese and dairy dishes from Velika Planina goes into what we ate. In summer, look for sour milk with buckwheat žganci, a traditional mountain meal, as well as the dairy products available at individual huts.
Trnič is another local specialty: a small, decorated, pear-shaped hard cheese traditionally made in pairs. Its story is tied to gifts of love between shepherds and their partners. Do not assume that every hut sells it or that dairy tastings run throughout the year. Bring cash for purchases from shepherds, and check the opening information for restaurants such as Zeleni rob if you are relying on a meal on the mountain.
As a photographer, I had plenty to keep me occupied here. The huts and mountain views make obvious subjects, and there is also room for smaller details along the paths. A pinecone made it into this article alongside the wider landscape. Sunrise and sunset are worth considering when planning your time, particularly if you stay overnight. I had hoped to photograph the stars as well; the cloudy nights put an end to that idea.
You can extend a walk toward Gradišče, the plateau’s highest point at 1,666 meters, or explore toward neighboring Mala Planina. Choose a marked route that suits your ability and the conditions. Cloud, fading light, and snow can make an otherwise straightforward route much harder to follow, so leave time for the return journey.
Renting a chalet lets you enjoy the plateau beyond a day trip. Tourist accommodation and the working shepherds’ settlement are separate parts of the mountain, even where the buildings look similar. Electricity and even Wi-Fi were available when we visited. Check the facilities of your chosen property, especially heating, drinking water, bedding, and luggage arrangements, before booking.
The operator lists mountain chalets on Velika Planina. You can also check the Chalet Zlatica listing on Booking.com. That booking link is an affiliate link, so we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Confirm how you will reach the chalet if the lifts are closed.
The usual lift access starts at the lower cable car station in the Kamniška Bistrica valley, near Kamnik. The cable car takes you to the upper station; from there, continue on foot or use the separate chairlift, followed by a walk to the shepherds’ settlement. Taking the cable car does not mean stepping straight into the village.
Allow roughly an hour to walk from the upper cable car station to the settlement, depending on your route and pace. We chose to hike up from the valley, and our ascent took around three hours. That is a description of our outing, not a standard time for every approach. Other trailheads have different distances and elevation gains; use the operator’s access and hiking information to choose your starting point.
Access update, checked October 22, 2026: The operator has announced that both the cable car and chairlift are closed from October 15 to November 15, 2026, for maintenance. Check the official timetable and notices before traveling. For any lift-assisted visit, note the final return departure before setting off on your walk.
The map below marks the valley parking area shown in our original article. It is a location reference, not a hiking route.
Choose summer if meeting shepherds and trying dairy products are central to your visit. Spring brings crocuses as the snow melts, with flowering dates dependent on the season. Autumn can suit walking and photography, although you need to check maintenance closures and reduced opening hours carefully.
Winter changes both the scenery and the practical demands of a trip. Snowshoeing, sledding, and other winter activities depend on snow conditions and the operator’s current program. Do not treat a summer walking time as a winter estimate. Check the mountain forecast, daylight, and route conditions before committing to an outing. A warm day in the valley tells you little about wind or ice higher up.
Wear sturdy walking shoes and bring layers, a windproof or waterproof jacket, water, snacks, and sun protection. Pack for the conditions on the plateau, including any winter equipment your chosen route requires. Check the forecast through ARSO, Slovenia’s weather service, and carry a usable map. Marked paths still require attention when visibility drops.
A shepherd told us about a visitor who had arrived in high heels, broken one, and then looked for a shoemaker. According to his account, a shepherd eventually nailed the heel back into place, providing the week’s entertainment in the process. I cannot vouch for the repair, but the footwear advice is sound. Bring the shoes you need from the start.
Velika Planina suits travelers who enjoy walking, local food, and enough time outdoors to stop making plans for a while. I would return with my camera and leave the night-sky photography at the mercy of the weather again. The memories that stayed with us were simple ones: the huts, the cheese, and the peace we found after the climb. Give the mountain enough time to be more than a photograph on the way to somewhere else.
| Detail | Information checked in October 2026 |
|---|---|
| Location | Kamnik-Savinja Alps, near Kamnik, Slovenia |
| Main lift access | Lower cable car station in the Kamniška Bistrica valley; a separate chairlift and walking paths continue above the upper station. |
| Highest point | Gradišče, 1,666 meters |
| Time to allow | We suggest at least half a day for a lift-assisted visit, allowing for travel, walking, and a meal. Add the full ascent and descent time if hiking from the valley. |
| Seasonal highlight | Shepherds and grazing cattle generally return between June and September, subject to weather. |
| Food | Seasonal dairy products at shepherds’ huts; restaurant openings vary. Bring cash for purchases from shepherds. |
| Tickets and hours | Check the operator’s current timetable and price list for your travel date and chosen lift combination. |
| Maintenance notice | Both lifts are announced closed October 15–November 15, 2026. Confirm the latest status before departure. |
| Overnight stays | Book a tourist chalet in advance and confirm facilities, provisions, and access with the host. |
| Operator contact | +386 1 8327 258 |
| Website | Official Velika Planina website |
The usual lift route begins with the cable car from Kamniška Bistrica. From its upper station, continue on foot or take the chairlift and then walk to the shepherds’ settlement. Hiking approaches are also available. Check operating notices first, especially during maintenance periods.
We recommend allowing at least half a day for a lift-assisted visit with a walk and a food stop. A valley hike needs considerably more time. Our ascent took around three hours; your timing will depend on the starting point, route, fitness, and weather.
The main grazing season is generally June through September, with arrival and departure dates influenced by the weather. Summer is the most reliable season to plan around shepherd life and seasonal dairy products.
Yes. Shepherds sell dairy products in the summer season, and restaurants such as Zeleni rob serve mountain dishes. Availability and opening days vary, so confirm food stops before your trip and carry water and snacks.
Yes, tourist chalets can be rented for overnight stays. Facilities differ between properties. Confirm heating, water, bedding, and transport arrangements with your host, including how to reach the accommodation when lifts are not operating.
Yes, winter visits are possible when access and conditions permit. Snow and ice require suitable equipment and a route matched to your experience. Check the mountain forecast, lift status, and availability of organized winter activities before setting out.
Our personal account and photographs come from our own visit. The following official sources were consulted on October 22, 2026, for access, seasonal activities, food traditions, and accommodation. Check them again before traveling.
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