Hoi An, Vietnam: Yellow Streets, Crowds and a Fragile Coast

Hoi An, Vietnam, was supposed to be the town I would fall in love with. Everyone said so, including Ian, who had visited a few years earlier. “I can’t wait for you to see it. You’ll love it,” he kept telling me. The yellow houses, old streets, river, and nearby coast sounded very promising. So did its reputation, until I considered how many other people had heard exactly the same thing. Our visit gave me plenty to admire, along with a few reasons to look beyond the lanterns.

Hoi An, Vietnam, in the Early Morning

Early morning was my favorite time to walk through Hoi An’s Ancient Town. The streets were still quiet, the sun was gentle, and we had room to stop and look at the buildings. Both of us were ready to stretch our legs. Ian was also ready to demonstrate that he could navigate the town without GPS, an important part of the morning’s entertainment.

What caught me first was the range of yellows. The old houses looked different from one doorway to the next, especially in that soft light. I understood immediately why people came here with cameras and carefully chosen outfits. Even then, popular photo spots had their own queues. We seemed to be one of the few couples without a romantic photo session on the schedule.

There is more to those streets than a good backdrop. Hoi An Ancient Town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, recognized for its surviving trading-port buildings and street plan. Walking through it slowly gave me time to notice the houses themselves, away from the business of getting the right photograph.

Tailor-Made Clothes and Everyday Rituals

Having clothes made was one part of Hoi An that lived up to our expectations. We met travelers who had come specifically to order something for a special occasion, and our own experience at BeBe gave me a much better understanding of the attraction. The red dress they made became a favorite of mine. I wrote about the fittings and the finished clothes in our Hoi An tailor experience, which is the place to start if that is part of your trip.

Shops and restaurants were part of our morning walk, too. We noticed people burning incense and praying before the day became busy. I would not presume to explain every person’s intention from watching a ritual in passing. It was simply one of the everyday scenes we encountered among the shopfronts, clothing displays, and visitors already looking for somewhere to pose.

What We Saw Along the River

The riverfront was the first place where my enthusiasm faltered. In 2019, the water beside the stretch we visited was dark and murky, with floating garbage and an unpleasant smell. We could also see discarded lanterns from earlier evenings. After admiring so much of the town, I found this difficult to ignore. We turned back toward the houses and flowers to look for breakfast.

Those observations explain my reaction; they cannot establish the river’s ecological condition, or tell anyone what it looks like today. I do think the lanterns deserve a second thought. A wish floating downstream also leaves something behind, and I would happily enjoy the lights hanging above the streets without adding another object to the water.

Coffee, Bánh Mì, and the Thought of Cycling

Coffee and bánh mì were our answer to a sleepless night. We settled at a sidewalk café with a good view of the street and watched a procession of bicycles go by. We were told it was connected with Sunday Mass, though I never established whether this was a regular event or a special celebration. Watching it gave us the idea of exploring more of Hoi An by bicycle.

For another side of the area, our separate story about Tra Que Garden Village near Hoi An follows the vegetable gardens outside the Ancient Town. That gives you something different to read alongside this account of the central streets. I would leave room in a Hoi An trip for both, especially if photography and walking are a large part of the appeal.

The Evening Crowds Changed the Experience

The difference between morning and evening was considerable. Even in what we understood to be the low season, the central streets became crowded enough to make walking uncomfortable for me. The space we had enjoyed earlier was gone, and stopping to look at a building became a different exercise. Anyone expecting uninterrupted peace among the lanterns should know that this was not our experience.

I also found myself thinking about the people who lived there. A visitor can step away from a busy street or leave town; residents have their homes and routines within it. I had no basis for judging every family’s circumstances. Seeing how much room tourism occupied did make me wonder how daily life fitted around it, especially for children. That thought stayed with me beyond the evening walk.

Cua Dai Beach: Erosion and Our Decision Not to Swim

Cua Dai’s erosion was another troubling part of the trip. We visited several stretches of the coast and could see why people wanted to spend time there. The length of the shoreline impressed me. At the same time, the damaged sections made it hard to match the beach in front of us with the idyllic version we had imagined. Our separate account of Cua Dai Beach erosion looks more closely at what we saw.

We chose not to swim after seeing dead fish, needles, and other litter washed ashore. Other travelers also told us about skin problems they associated with swimming there. Those accounts were not verified, and I cannot establish what caused either the dead fish or anyone’s symptoms. What we personally saw was enough to put us off entering the sea. Nearby, invitations to buy something or sit down at quiet restaurants made the effect on local businesses hard to overlook.

The coast needs its own current assessment. Vietnam’s official tourism guide to Hoi An also describes erosion at Cua Dai. Our photographs document an earlier visit, so they should not be used to judge the present condition of a particular beach or its suitability for swimming. Check the stretch you plan to use and the conditions when you arrive.

My Take on Visiting Hoi An

I would still include Hoi An in a trip to central Vietnam. The early walks, yellow houses, and clothes made for us gave me good reasons to be glad we came. For travelers interested in architecture, photography, and tailoring, there is plenty here to spend time on. I would plan those walks early, allow time beyond the busiest streets, and make beach plans separately.

My affection for the town came with concern for what surrounded it: the water, the shoreline, and the lives being lived among all those visitors. I no longer think of Hoi An as an uncomplicated romantic escape. I remember a place I enjoyed looking at and wanted to see cared for, with its residents as much a part of its future as its buildings.

Hoi An Practical Notes

Hoi An FAQ

Sources and Further Reading