JAZ by Ana Roš Review: A Spring Lunch in Ljubljana

Our JAZ by Ana Roš review begins with a familiar name and a different kind of meal. We knew Ana Roš’s cooking from our Hiša Franko review, and came to her Ljubljana bistro curious about what would carry over into a more relaxed room. We found spring ingredients, a particularly memorable pasta, thoughtful drinks, and service that made the meal easy to enjoy.

JAZ by Ana Roš in Ljubljana

JAZ occupies part of AS Boutique Hotel on Čopova ulica, in the center of Ljubljana. Its name means “me” in Slovenian, an invitation to read the bistro as a more informal expression of Ana Roš’s cooking. The MICHELIN Guide lists JAZ as a selected restaurant, while the three stars belong to Hiša Franko. They are different restaurants and different experiences.

The room has industrial touches, botanical wallpaper, and details that keep it from becoming too serious. It gave us space to concentrate on the food without the formality of a long tasting menu.

Roš is self-taught and internationally recognized, though the chef’s reputation was not the most useful way to judge our lunch. What mattered was how the kitchen handled familiar ingredients: dandelion, potato, cave-aged cheese, Jerusalem artichoke, and Tepka pear.

Drinks at JAZ by Ana Roš

The drinks list extends beyond the usual wine pairing. We noted Slovenian and other European wines, cocktails, craft beer, and house kombucha. A pairing can be rewarding here, though the sencha kombucha also worked well alongside the food.

The Wines We Tried

Welschriesling by Colnar

Colnar’s Dolenjska Welschriesling had mineral freshness, a golden color, and an ending that reminded us of honey and dried apricot. Time in wood gave the middle of the wine more breadth.

Merlot by Herga

Herga’s Styrian Merlot opened with black pepper and a little wood. Cherry, plum, and blackberry followed, with a soft vanilla note and an earthy edge. It was an interesting counterpoint to the idea that Slovenian Merlot must come from the warmer southwest.

Kopke Fine Ruby Port

The ruby port brought young red fruit, cherry, spice, and raisins. It was a sweeter finish to the pairing.

Sencha Kombucha

Served over ice, the sencha-based kombucha was tart first, then gently sweet. Its green-tea notes were still clear beneath the fermentation.

Food at JAZ by Ana Roš

JAZ serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with menus that change. Our meal was a spring lunch, so the following dishes describe what we ate, not a promise of what is currently on the menu. The kitchen made its strongest impression when it gave familiar Slovenian ingredients a new setting without losing their character.

Whipped Butter and Sourdough

Whipped mountain butter came with flower honey, peanut miso, and fleur de sel. The first bite was nutty; dried-fruit notes and a little salt appeared later. We kept returning to the slow-fermented sourdough, which brought back a pleasant memory of our meal at Hiša Franko.

Spring Salad

Dandelion and young radicchio met potato, bacon, egg, and a measured touch of horseradish. Potato appeared as small pieces glazed with smoked yolk cream and as a foam made from baked potato. Crisp bacon and roasted hazelnuts gave the softer elements some contrast. This was a salad rooted in a familiar Slovenian spring dish, with every part considered.

Cheese-Filled Pasta and Jerusalem Artichoke

The filled egg pasta carried the depth of cave-aged cheese. It was tender and toothsome, while pieces of Jerusalem artichoke in brown butter added sweet, nutty bursts. We would have gladly eaten more of it. The original menu description associated the cheese with Jamar cave-aged cheese; the exact cheese and preparation may change with the menu.

Slow-Cooked Beef

The beef was succulent and tender, served with smooth celeriac purée enriched with caramel butter. Chocolate jus carried cinnamon and star anise, and pickled celeriac brought a welcome lift. Seasoning was assertive, especially the salt, though the dish stayed coherent when we combined its elements.

Tepka Pear Dessert

For dessert, a Bovec kraf wrapped dried Tepka pear in thin dough. Sourdough crumble brought rum, vanilla, and cinnamon, while butter sauce made the dumpling especially comforting. It was a quiet ending with a strong sense of place.

Our Verdict

JAZ is a good fit for anyone who wants to explore Ana Roš’s ideas over a relaxed meal in Ljubljana. The pasta and spring salad stayed with us, and the service carried the afternoon without drawing attention to itself. It has its own character; there is no need to measure every plate against a visit to Hiša Franko.

We also appreciated the value of lunch when we visited. The generous seasoning on the beef may not suit everyone, and a seasonal kitchen will naturally move on from the exact dishes we describe. Even so, we would happily book another table to see what came next.

JAZ by Ana Roš Review Card

• 9.6/10
  ATMOSPHERE – 9.6/10
• 9.7/10
  SERVICE – 9.7/10
• 9.8/10
  PRESENTATION – 9.8/10
• 9.8/10
  FOOD – 9.8/10
• 9.4/10
  DRINKS – 9.4/10
• 9.7/10
  VALUE – 9.7/10

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For another side of Ana Roš’s cooking, read our review of Hiša Franko in Kobarid. For a different Ljubljana restaurant experience, see our Grič review.