Welcome back to our blog, it was about the time to visit another gem here in Slovenia and I assure you, this one truly is special. There is plenty to say about the sustainably driven, zero-waste, Michelin star restaurant Gric. Most notable is the green star, which is especially difficult to get, and it means to us even more than stars. Nonetheless, the real reason we drove for about half an hour away from the Ljubljana, was the creative Chef Luka Kosir. We couldn’t wait to try his creations and now we share our experience with you. Restaurant Gric Review is probably the most extended review we have ever done, and there is a reason behind it – it’s amazing!
About the Gric Restaurant
Most elements ending on Michelin star Gric restaurant’s table come from their organic farm. Vegetables are a no-brainer, but the Kosir family also cares for ducks and grows mushrooms, edible flowers, and herbs, including wasabi. All the rest comes from the village or as near as possible. Chef’s sustainable practice with zero waste policy was also awarded a Michelin Green Star.
Dairy Products
Right across the Gric restaurant is the organic goat farm where the Oresnik family makes various dairy products. Home to traditional practices where goats graze steep pastures and cheese enthusiasts from all over the world show up for a learning experience. Diverse terrain that has never been touched by chemical fertilizers, naturally affects the goat’s milk in increased quality. This can be felt most intensely in cheese, especially aged one. Some Oresnik items are prepared exclusively for the Gric restaurant.
Duck Farm
Hidden in the forest, near the mushroom garden is a flock of ducks. Approximately a hundred feathered birds on pest duty count about 8 different sorts. Happy ducks are on the menu once a year – that’s when the right conditions for the best quality meat happen. Lately, with long warm autumns becoming normal, the processing of ducks doesn’t occur before the wintertime. A nice fat layer that comes with cool temperatures is well worth the wait and patience is awarded with fresh eggs.
The Cellar
A showstopping cellar is a place of magic. Not so much because it is divided into individual stations for fish, cheese, cold cuts, dry age chamber, wine cellar, and fermentation station. But because chef Luka Kosir experiments with different techniques and ingredients. The most wild area must be the fermentation, where a collection of 24 different miso sauces grew over time. Fermentation fascination started with sriracha when Chef Luka made an irresistible batch. Later on, he perfected lacto fermentation, kimchi, fish sauce, and much more. Mercifully, some of the ferments are possible to buy, and if you want to learn new skills you can get a masterclass as well.
Drinks on the Menu
Wine
Growing wine collection is based on eco-friendly practices at every step of the wine-making journey. Regenerative practices that respect time-tested methods surely deserve a special place in any wine cellar. So do wine bottles of vineyards awarded with strict biodynamic Demeter certificate. Attention to detail is shown also through the search for smaller families that have a passion for viticulture.
June
In general, we can say that june is a probiotic drink made with water kefir grains steeped in chilled tea and sugar. At the Gric Restaurant flavor gets pushed in all directions with the use of herbs, fruit, honey, and salt. Sky is the limit and with a chef that doesn’t like to repeat himself you never know what will swipe you off your feet.
Herbal Tea
If you want to enjoy an herbal beverage rest assured that you’ll get a mix of herbs handpicked picked in a pristine environment.
Atmosphere at the Gric Restaurant
The old part of the property shines brightly in traditional white and black hues. Given the fact that Slovenia is a catholic country, you’ll be greeted by the Virgin Mary before you enter the dining room. Authenticity can be seen also in wooden ceilings and textured plastered walls. Furthermore, the sheepskin can be understood as yet another nod to Slovenian history. However, if you don’t care about the past, you might enjoy how it softens the look of the restaurant while ensuring a cozy seat for all the guests. Many items in the restaurant are made locally including the lights and wall décor, which is all about honouring the food.
Restaurant Gric Review
Amuse Bouche
The insanely crispy crust of a Focaccia took all the attention for a brief moment. It was difficult to let go of the pure crunch, but the flamboyant hues of the pumpkin dip proved to be irresistible. The colors of the sun delighted us with harmoniously tuned flavors that put pumpkin in the spotlight while the texture was as light as a cloud.
Wine Pairing
Sparkling wine Reya Brut Nature is the perfect fit with its fine bubbles and sophisticated tones. It was maturing for four years on yeasts before four different vintages were mixed together. The end product expresses a fruity aroma and refreshing body with a mineral aftertaste.
Chefs Compliments
Bisque in Kadayif
The compact bisque cream inside the brittle wheat kadyif hides its umami. The seafood used in bisque is the only ingredient that comes further than 5 kilometers or 3 miles. As one can expect the catch is wild and comes from the Adriatic Sea.
Sedum Sturgeon
Vibrant flavors presented to us on a Sedum leaf were rounded with marinated sturgeon. A bite full of different textures delivered slight acidity coming from tomato reduction boosted with a touch of garlic.
Leafy Sandwich
Fine spinach biscuit filled with smoothened and masterfully leveled hard goat cheese was all about the fine-tuned balance. Both parts of the bite had the opportunity to shine and support each other in a mouthwatering way.
Broccoli in a Shell
Delicate shell full of chopped baby broccoli had a boost in the form of an herbal broccoli cream. A healthy snack left us with an intricate aftertaste and smooth mouthfeel.
Humming Cracker
Cracker consisting of sunflower and camelina seeds filled with hummus, truly was one extraordinary “tasty pasty”. Here we must mention the secret of this ancient seed – camelina is a stone-age superfood. Talking about food that is pure gold for the body and soul, the hummus was made with fermented vegetables and elegantly seasoned with miso paste, also made downstairs.
Cold Appetizer
Power of the Goat
It happened for the first time that our mouth was salivating in between the bites. Knowing what to expect next, just filled us with a desire for more. What was so exciting, you might ask? Simply put, it is about pure flavours dancing together in adoration. In this case, it was about goat’s cream cheese and cucumbers. Together they created a gentle, light, and refreshing abundance of flavors, we couldn’t get enough of. Scrumptious cheese wrapped with ribbons of fresh cucumbers topped with grated goat cheese aged with blue mold, made in granite. Let’s not forget the cucumber water binding everything together.
Fragrant Fish
A carpet of sweet-smelling phlox blossoms stole the show. For a moment we didn’t care that red bream covered in citrus cream was waiting for us. On such a hot and sunny day, we bet that Phlox pushed as hard as it could! The scent was flamboyantly there, even when we smothered it with orange peel-infused olive oil. On top of that these sweet petals bestowed a textural fix to the succulent sashimi and refreshing cream.
Drops for Pairing
Boutique Vitovska
An old autochthonous white wine variety known as Vitovska Grganja is full of elegance with a long almondy aftertaste. To the tongue, it is quite mineral and invigorating with notes of ripe citrus fruit. We had the pleasure to taste the 2017 vintage from a tiny vinery from the Kras region. Grapes went through less than a week of maceration time before the second step in wooden barrels. After six months in a wooden barrel wine finally matures in modern inox cisterns.
June
A fermented drink sweetened with honey, Tepka pear, and peppermint. Certainly, a thirst-quenching drink that was more salty than sweet, but very clearly nectariferous. By the way, the pears used for this drink come from an old heirloom variety known as the Tepka pear. Austrian Empress Maria Theresa ordered to plant Tepka pear trees on every farm. Those farmers who didn’t plant enough pear trees were punished. Maybe the act of beating up the disobedient serfs named this unique pear Tepka(“beatings”), or maybe it was a way of harvesting that happens in the same manner, by beating up the tree.
Warm Appetizer
Duck Liver
It feels good to eat the liver of a well-fed animal, that had a happy and active life. Good feed is especially important when we have liver on the plate. Surely that is a reason for the liver to taste sweet, but at Michelin Star Gric restaurant we got plenty more. Another cause is the beetroot glazed with birch syrup and aronia berries. Bea balm blossoms also don’t hurt. They played on the strings of spruce needles ash and pine oil. A plate of intense flavors and different textures befitting to daring carnivores.
Herbal Yolk
Lusciously rich duck’s egg yolk surrounded by freshly harvested aromatic herbs of all sorts, made every bite an adventure. No matter what herb landed on the spoon it was creamy and crunchy. Whenever we added the burned rapeseeds and potato nest we were met by a more familiar ground. All the while, the light parsley foam felt like a light cloud on a hot sunny day.
Drops for Pairing
June
More refreshing due to the gentle acidity, but still very chill. We loved the amplified harmony between herbal notes from the Birch leaves and the floral aroma of the honey.
Aged Tuna
Delightfully smelling tuna fish deepened the depth of flavor over the two months of the aging process. It didn’t just look good among the invigorating berries but also tasted great as well. Admittingly, the greengage isn’t really a berry but we loved its acidity with the divine complexity of the grilled tuna. However, when we snatched the peppery nasturtiums, we were in heaven. That was especially true when we included the nikiri sauce with cistus-infused soy sauce.
Cuttlefish on Strips
Cuttlefish in three forms brought the celebration of the sea to the plate. We loved the masterfully tuned cuttlefish paste on strips of tender cuttlefish, dense algae, and toothsome zucchini. The textural play has a silver lining with lemon invigorated ink.
Drops for Pairing
Muscat by Zorjan
The consuming practice of caring for the vineyard is done by the biodynamic principles and Zorjan vinery even got a seal of approval by the strict Demeter standard. Once the Muscat grape is ready to be harvested, they handpick individual berries and gently pop them before they are exposed to the old Georgian method. That is done through the six-month fermentation in buried clay amphoras. After half a year in the ground, the wine gets decanted into a cleaned amphora for another year. After that, it is time for the wine to mature for one more year in the cellar before the last stop in wooden barrels for another two years. Minimal interventions allow the wine to be its own master without any fine-tuning and manipulation. The end result shines in amber color with a complex fragrance, buttery mouthfeel, and mineral aftertaste along with a long-lasting fruitiness.
June
Gooseberry is the main star, but with the addition of beet stalks, walnuts, and shiso herb it reaches new dimensions. On the nose, it is intensely fruity while the taste is full and rounded. Salt addition stopped the fermentation process that would deliver acidity making it more herbal and graceful.
Pallet Cleanser
A refreshing frozen treat made of elderberries combined with fragrant peony espuma gave us relief before another savory meal of the day. We loved the mild astringency with a touch of ginger in the aftertaste. All in all, it was a well-balanced combination that aroused our appetite for more.
Main Course
Alpine Caviar Soaking Iceberg
The heart of a really fresh iceberg dressed in a creamy coat of savory symphony was an absolute hit. What else could it be? After all, it was topped with the Siberian Sturgeon roe by Alpine Caviar. Crispy crunch in a mixture of hazelnut vinegar, cream fresh, with soy sauce, and fig leaf oil. Best of all was the change when iceberg salad flushed the delicate popped roe with its juice.
Caviar
Caviar comes from the nearest organic farm possible, which is located in the Austrian Alps (let’s say they are about a 3-hour drive away). Alpine Caviar’s champion, besides members of a small family farm, is a sturgeon. Due to its less salted roe letting the unique nutty taste shine through, it is one of a kind. The biggest influence on the flavor is pristine water and a rare honor for the sturgeon to live its adolescent life in the wild, swimming and eating away wild prey. Such a precious ingredient is an exciting find that is permanently on Gric Restaurant’s 11-course degustation menu.
Drops for Pairing
Furmint Brut Nature by Gross
Furmint Brut Nature sparkling wine couldn’t be more perfect with caviar. We loved how the fine bubbles energized the sophisticated extra dry nature of the floral body. Furthermore, the microclimate of the Gross vineyard has a beneficial effect on the wine.
Because of the steep terrain in the Slovenian Stayer region, the machinery is out of the question. Luckily so, otherwise the family vineyard wouldn’t be the same. The history of a furmint vine dates to Napoleon’s times and can be used in extremes. Besides that, this sparkling gem grew on pristine slopes, that are unharmed by chemicals. All of that is met with devotion and care for the natural practices that reward hard work.
Iron Beef
Beef aged for seven months was a clear star of the iron plate, even though it had strong companions. However, black koji was another strong player that demanded attention, besides the plate fit for an open flame. A koji fungus is special and certified as the “National Mold of Japan”, so no pressure. Umami pack with a touch of bitterness and saltiness bonded well also with swiss chard rolls. But for the best bite, we had to unite all components including the light sauce made of stalks.
Blacksmith
The iron plate made by the neighbor clearly showed how important is the physical plate. A vessel uniquely affects the food, it hoes from the cooking process to the final act of the meal. In our case, the warm brushed plate echoed elegant insurance.
Drops for Pairing
Truska Wine
Dry Truska wine is a cuve of 40% refosc, 30% merlot and 30% cabarnet sauvignon. On the nose, it is full of ripe fruit with a spiced wooden back. Sipping on it coats the mouth with a velvet-like feel and rich taste. Truska organic red wine has a long maceration process before being left to mature for 36 months in old barrique barrels.
June
Elderflower berries seasoned with walnut leaves, fermented green strawberry, and wild cherry. Its fruity aroma smelled of ripe candied fruit and sweets. Surprise revealed itself upon tasting the savory drink. Still and smooth essence was very tasty and befitting to such a powerful plate of food.
Dessert
Pumpkin Rose
The queen of flowers sent us lip-smacking way with melt-in-your-mouth pumpkin semifreddo. Passion for the original flavors prevented excessive use of salt and sugar, leading to a balanced treat. Due to exquisite seasonings, we got the best part of the buttery pumpkin and fragrant rose meeting each other. Compact pumpkin shined in warm tones while rose variations invigorated and perfumed the way for the gentle perilla oil.
Drops for Pairing
Semi-Dry Rhine Riesling by Stolfa
Semi-dry Rhine Riesling by the Stofla family from the Slovenian Dolenjska region tasted great next to the mildly sweet first dessert. Its sweet aftertaste lifted the following bite while supplying a gentle aroma of peaches and sweet spices.
Goat’s Yogurt with Juzu
A dessert where sugar has a place only between toasted sesame seeds might not be enough for our intense sweet tooth. At least, that was our first thought. As it turned out, the light confection with airy juzu cream was spot on for a hot summer day. Fragrant green shiso-infused luscious goat’s yogurt with a combination of fruit and sweet-smelling flowers. It tasted especially wonderful when we combined it all in one bite.
Drops for Pairing
June
Wild forest strawberries stand proudly with juzu infusion sweetened with honey. Sweet-smelling citrusy aroma painted a mirage of sweetness that materialized with honey.
Chef’s Sweet Goodbye
The First Milk
Goat’s colostrum was all about nourishing flavors. This wholesome bite was effortlessly uplifted by the vanilla-clove-like phlox aroma.
Pick Me Up
Fruity seaberry mousse with intense medlar filling was divine with sweet and sour drives.
Tonka You
Innocent-looking cookie made of burned dough was gentle tasting with a crunch on the outside. The not-too-sweet base for the tonka cream was an utter joy that let the tonka’s famous complex nutty vanilla flavours shine through.
Cocoa Blues
Shiny-looking quenelle made of cocoa with thyme cream tasted sophisticated and mature.
After Eight
Chocolate ducks represented the house version of After Eight, which was intense and left our mouth feeling refreshed.
Final Thought
Here, we came to the end of this extended Restaurant Gric Review, and I hope you are as ecstatic as we are. Whole food is becoming increasingly challenging to get and when it is enriched and prepared with such devotion it is an honor to enjoy it. You can see that, the chef understands the whole circle of ingredients and has the skills how to bring it to the next level. One element here is critical, and they respect it – time. Some ingredients are much better with the help of time. So why not take some time and enjoy being on cloud nine? We truly loved the view over the garden silently stating that this is as fresh as it gets. Warmly recommended!
Restaurant Gric Review Card
- ATMOSPHERE – 9.6/109.6/10
- SERVICE – 9.9/109.9/10
- PRESENTATION – 10/1010/10
- FOOD – 9.9/109.9/10
- DRINKS – 9.9/109.9/10
- VALUE – 9.8/109.8/10
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