Restaurant Pavus Review: A Tasting Menu at Grad Tabor

Our Restaurant Pavus review follows a five-course lunch at Grad Tabor above Laško. Chef Marko Pavčnik brought Slovenian ingredients together with touches of Asia, from marinated trout to Krškopolje pork. The stone-walled castle gave the meal its setting, though a large tent occupied the courtyard on our visit. The restaurant has since earned a Michelin star, and the seasonal dishes described here belong to the meal we actually ate.

Restaurant Pavus Review: Castle Setting

Small windows, stone walls and dark wooden furniture gave the dining room a quiet, grounded character. Handmade ornaments softened the medieval setting, and from the hill we could see the forest and Laško below.

A large plastic tent occupied the courtyard when we visited, interrupting the view of the castle from outside. We did not know whether it was there for an event, and the dining room itself retained its character. It was a blemish on the arrival, not a reason to miss the food.

The Pavus Tasting Menu We Tried

Pavčnik’s seasonal cooking drew on Slovenian produce and occasional Asian flavors. Our lunch came soon after returning from Asia, so the combinations of local ingredients with miso, kimchi and spice caught our attention. The dishes below describe our five-course tasting menu, preceded by two opening bites. Pavus changes its menu regularly, and today’s offerings differ from these plates.

Amuse-bouche

The first two bites set the tone. I preferred the cucumber foam with a cube of terrine: its lightly pickled cucumber gave the meat a clean, salty-sour lift. The other bite was freshly made pâté on a crisp slice of bread. For more context on the ingredients behind dishes like these, see our guide to Slovenian food.

Marinated Trout with Pickled Radish

The marinated trout came with radish pickled in beet juice and an elderberry sauce. The radish brought a sharp note, while the sauce followed the aromas in the trout marinade. It was a Slovenian reading of sashimi, with its own set of condiments.

An orange cream coated the trout, while cuttlefish-ink polenta and peppery nasturtiums added contrast. The dish remained fresh and balanced through its many components.

Smoked Deer Carpaccio

Crisp quinoa chips were enjoyable on their own and even better with the goose liver foam. Raspberry and a piece of black walnut skin brought sweetness alongside the rich, buttery notes.

Underneath sat smoked deer carpaccio. The tender meat, forest fruit and liver foam made this an especially satisfying course. We returned to the chips between bites of carpaccio.

Poached Egg, Celery and Truffle

Celery appeared in several forms around a poached egg: a foam from the head, oil from the stems and leaves, and pickled root. Truffle and bread crumbs completed the plate. It was a thoughtful use of the whole vegetable, with the parsley adding a little freshness to the foam.

The celery oil supported the egg without overwhelming it. That balance mattered more to us than the number of techniques on the plate.

Krškopolje Pork, Miso and Kimchi

The main course centered on Krškopolje pork, Slovenia’s black-belted native breed. The meat had the deeper color and flavor that struck us as quite different from everyday pork. Five-spice, kimchi and miso carried the dish toward Asia, while the pork kept it anchored in Slovenia.

The meat was beautifully cooked, and the miso sauce and pickled elements suited it. A fried rice ball added another texture. The beet-pickled onion was particularly welcome beside the meat.

Jurka Sorbet, Yogurt and Pumpkin

Dessert paired deep pink Jurka grape sorbet with cardamom-seasoned Greek yogurt, star-anise pumpkin and crunchy buckwheat. The sorbet refreshed the palate, while the yogurt and pumpkin made the ending more comforting. Those buckwheat pieces were a small detail, but their crunch pulled the plate together.

We also tried the dessert with Dišeči Traminec. Its floral aroma extended the grape notes, although Ian found the wine too perfumed. I enjoyed that pairing more than he did.

Wine

After time in Asia, it was a pleasure to return to Slovenian wine. With the pork we tried Benedetič Merlot 2016, whose red-fruit character and gently spiced finish worked well with the meat.

Tilia Rubido 2017, a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon as described at our tasting, brought fuller notes of plum, fruit and smoke. I would gladly pair it with the deer as well as the pork. We finished with Dišeči Traminec: Ian disliked its perfume, while I liked its aromatic finish with dessert.

Conclusion

Pavus made the castle more than a backdrop. The trout, celery and pork showed how confidently Pavčnik could move between Slovenian produce and Asian influences, while the wines added another reason to linger. I would recommend it to travelers who enjoy a slow tasting meal and want to see what a Slovenian chef can do with local produce without treating tradition as a set of rules. The tent outside disappointed us; the cooking is what I still remember.

Restaurant Pavus Review Card

• 9.3/10
  ATMOSPHERE – 9.3/10
• 9.6/10
  SERVICE – 9.6/10
• 9.6/10
  PRESENTATION – 9.6/10
• 9.5/10
  FOOD – 9.5/10
• 8.8/10
  DRINKS – 8.8/10
• 9.3/10
  VALUE – 9.3/10

Practical Details and Booking

What to Wear at Pavus

Smart casual suited the castle dining room on our visit. We did not find a formal dress code on the restaurant website, so check with Pavus if you are dressing for a special occasion.

Restaurant Pavus FAQ