Šturm Winery in Bela Krajina: A Visit with Otmar Šturm

A good bottle can turn a forgettable shopping trip into a reason to explore somewhere new. That was how we found Šturm Winery, also written as Sturm Winery, in Slovenia’s Bela Krajina region. Our first encounter was at Šturm’s wine shop, where we discovered Akord and met the man behind it, Otmar “Oto” Šturm. His conversation gave us as much reason to remember the afternoon as the wine did. Before our next flight, we made room for a visit to his cellar.

We headed back to Bela Krajina for the second time, making one last stop in Slovenia, whose food and countryside keep drawing us back. The winery stands on Plešči Vrh near Vidošiči, below the church of St. Anne. Small vineyards spread across the surrounding hills, with forest on one side. Oto was waiting with a bottle of Ana, his sparkling wine. Its freshness, lively bubbles and bread-crust aroma made a persuasive welcome.

The scale was larger than the word “boutique” might suggest. Annual production was more than 100,000 liters at the time of our visit, while the visit itself remained a personal introduction to the family’s work. The newer cellar and its tanks made the production side clear; the conversation kept returning to individual vineyards, vintages and decisions.

Šturm Winery Tour: From a Family Cellar to a Working Estate

Our tour began in the older cellar, a compact space holding some of the estate’s special sweet wines. The family’s story started with wine made for pleasure, friends and relatives. As the quality gained recognition, a pastime became a business, with more vineyards and eventually a larger cellar below the old one.

The winery’s own history dates the first plantings by Otmar Šturm senior to 1968. His Yellow Muscat won a large gold medal at the international wine competition in Ljubljana in 1983. Oto took over from his father in 1992, at 21. Those dates help explain the combination we encountered: a family business with roots in local wine culture and a willingness to try something different.

In the newer cellar, stainless-steel tanks stood alongside the barrique barrels we were particularly interested in. I liked the precision behind the wines: they were cleanly made and had a character of their own. The orange wines were a highlight, especially Akord, which had first caught our attention in the shop. Oto’s straightforward manner made it easy to ask questions, so we stayed with the conversation.

Interview with Otmar “Oto” Šturm

We spoke with Oto about the family business, Bela Krajina, Akord and the balance between tradition and technology. His answers also explain why a small winery might choose to improve its work without chasing a larger production volume. The questions and answers below have been lightly edited for English and clarity.

Your wines stood out to us within the region. How do you view your contribution to winemaking in Bela Krajina?

It is not for me to decide whether I have done enough. That is for other people to say, and time will show what has been achieved. In this region, viticulture is a national sport: every family has its own vineyard, usually run by the head of the family. Close to the vineyard there is often a vineyard cottage, a place to rest after work and socialize with friends. That is exactly how we started. We made wine for the soul, for pleasure and for friends, without commercial ambitions. In our family, the focus was always on authentic wine that tasted good.

For us, it is important to respect natural resources and understand what the vineyard gives us through the quality of the grapes. You cannot expect identical wines from every vintage. Some years suit lighter, fresher wines, while others give us wines suitable for aging. Once or twice in a decade, conditions allow us to make a special predicate wine. That is why we have three different wine ranges.

What principles guide you as a winemaker?

My wife and I took over the farm when we were very young. At that age, it was difficult to set out the future direction and all the principles that would guide us. The work and the circumstances bring you to certain realizations, whether you planned them or not. I believe every winemaker needs several vintages of their own before they develop and, metaphorically speaking, mature. Hard work and limitations are part of that, along with a wider view of the world, openness to new ideas and honest self-criticism.

Developing your palate is particularly important. Tasting only your own wine will not do it. You need to try your neighbor’s wines and wines from other parts of the world. It takes a lot of practice. As for a motto, I prefer to follow my own path. There is an old saying that a lion imitating another lion is not a lion, it is a monkey. I try to have my own style and make wines in my own way.

What are the advantages and limitations of a boutique winery, and do you want to expand?

The small size and fragmentation of winegrowers in Bela Krajina can be a weakness. When I visited large wineries abroad 25 years ago, I realized that I could not become a producer on their scale. I decided to turn that limitation into an advantage. I began separating grapes according to the vineyard sites where they grew, as well as by variety. That led to small quantities of individual wines, and we became known as a boutique cellar. When we talk about getting bigger, we mean improving the production process, not building larger premises.

Do you think Bela Krajina is overlooked as a wine region?

That is probably the general opinion. Personally, I do not see it that way. I think serious wine lovers, both Slovenian and foreign, know this part of Slovenia.

Are there any winemaking decisions you regret or would make differently?

Well, I am too young to regret my past decisions. 🙂

Akord made a strong impression on us. How did you develop that wine?

Akord was a wine that had been developing in my mind for several years. The most important thing was waiting for the right vintage, so we could bring together three varieties: 60% Traminer, 30% Yellow Muscat and 10% Kraljevina, our local variety. We then turned to older winemaking methods. All three varieties were macerated for 30 days, and the wine matured in oak barrels for four years. The name Akord comes from music: a chord is three notes sounding together. In our case, it is the flavors of three grape varieties that are particularly important to us.

From that point, things developed on their own. Good things happen freely, without being forced.

For bottles being sold today, the winery’s published Akord description specifies 28 days of maceration, 36 months in oak and a further 10 months in bottle. Oto’s answer records the wine discussed at our meeting; check the details of the vintage you are buying.

How do you balance traditional winemaking with modern technology?

It is important to respect tradition and heritage. That does not mean we should keep crushing grapes with our hands and feet. Hygiene is essential, and we need to keep making technological progress. For me, useful technology includes gentle machinery, cooling systems and gentler presses. The other side, the use of winemaking additives and treatments, is something we try to keep to a minimum as a boutique winery.

What is your view of biodynamics?

I have a positive view of biodynamics. We make wines in a natural way, though we do not keep biodynamic diaries.

We found relatively few high-end dining options in Bela Krajina. How did you see the situation?

I agree with that observation. I do not think the problem lies with the providers themselves. It has more to do with the local environment. There are capable chefs here who could prepare high-end meals; the difficulty is finding enough customers for that niche.

What are your plans for the future?

After the difficult times behind us, and with more possibly ahead, it is hard to talk about plans. There are wishes, of course, and then there is reality. I would be happy if things remained as they are.

Why Šturm Winery Stayed with Us

Akord was what brought us to Šturm, and the cellar visit gave us a better understanding of the thinking behind it. I came away remembering Oto’s insistence on developing his own palate, working with individual vineyard sites and accepting what each vintage could give him. For travelers interested in Slovenian wine, that kind of conversation is a good reason to make time for Bela Krajina. Arrange the visit in advance and be clear about whether you want to see the hilltop winery or taste at the castle cellar in Metlika.

Visiting Šturm Winery and the Castle Cellar

Šturm lists two separate addresses: the winery near St. Anne’s church and Grajska klet in Metlika Castle. The estate welcomes prearranged group tastings, and the castle wine shop also arranges tastings. Contact the winery to confirm the location, availability, wines and price for your visit.

Šturm Winery FAQ

Sources and Visitor Information