Working With the Land

Many people in the area earn their living by producing food. Many of them said no to dirty food in 2016 and turned away from harmful chemical agricultural products. Instead, they went back to the roots and joined forces with animals. For example, duck-patrol does marvels for pest control in rice fields. Farmers likely keep ducks for more than just hunting slugs and other critters. As far as we know ducks lay eggs and their sacrifice leaves behind some tasty proteins. Incredible Peking duck from Red Rose Restaurant in Bangkok is still very much alive in our memory.

We also must mention the Ninh Binh delicacy – goats. Goats are perfect for steep limestone mountains that no one can reach at least not for fun. However, enjoyment is by the Ngo Dong River where people fish for food and money.

Peace & Quiet at Ninh Binh

Only when we got to the Ninh Binh, we realized how much we missed the silence. Finally, our ears got a break from the big city uproar! The drastic change was almost scary at first, but we welcomed it with all our hearts. On top of that, we were able to breathe deeper and taste the sweetness of unpolluted air. Little did we know this was just the beginning of our serene time in the countryside.

Sometimes, maybe overly serene… How could we know that whenever we wanted some fruit from the market, we needed to wake up a seller to make a purchase? Honestly, we felt bad waking up people for some fruit, but luckily, there was always one who was awake. 

Ninh Binh Can Be Active & Attractive

Soon we shared the need for a power nap, just like locals. All the running around from one pagoda to the other takes a toll. Who wouldn’t want to see the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia or the legendary Bich Dong Pagoda? Then there are 500 steps leading to the Hang Mua viewpoints. That goes if you leave out the caves! Since we came this far, we had to see it all.

Of course, we only scratched the surface of an area where the first Vietnamese capital, Hoa Lu, used to be. Once we started to feel overwhelmed by the beauty we hopped in a boat. A boat ride in Ninh Binh is a must no matter the waiting time. Supposedly, the boat must be full to get going, but anything can be arranged for the right price. Most likely you’ll get to experience a smooth ride powered by old feet. Some say that people use their feet to row because their hands are tired. Whatever the reason, we were preoccupied by the beauty around us. Finally, we understood why people call Ninh Binh the “Ha Long Bay on Land”.

Past & Present of Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh is one of the increasingly rare places on Earth where a company of 1,000-year-old living beings is still possible. A handful of silent giants call Cuc Phuong National Park home. To clarify, I am talking about trees. And here around you will see some amazing examples.

No doubt, the first Vietnamese national park is the most important site for the country’s biodiversity. Like many rural gems, also Ninh Binh focuses on agrotourism to represent the local traditional culture. All we can say is that we hope the practices are truly kept in the spirit of the past. True to the practice that improves land year after year. This way the fairytales of the past can become a wonderful reality for future generations. Sadly, monoculture is still the most popular way of growing food, and the sea of pineapples is a highly desired background for countless selfies. 

Final Thought

It is impossible to top the 50 shades of green surrounded by limestone peaks with places of worship in between. As luck would have it, words do shape-shift and one can admire beauty in its raw form in many different ways. Every angle tells a different story, one impossibly different than the other. Our goal was to get immersed in Mother Nature and forget the rest.

We went to great lengths to skip the unpleasant label “walking ATM” that sticks to all tourists and got a better deal because of that. Our pact was about chilling in front of the lake with limestone mountains around it, simply existing and embracing the stunning surroundings. It also means tasty food and no speeding heart rate. No wonder that Hanoians like weekends in Ninh Binh, who wouldn’t?

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Quick History of Hue

Hue Imperial City was built by the Perfume River, which floats through the scented natural world. Who knows if it was the incredible taste of water or its aroma that Emperor Nguyen wanted to stay in this place. In addition to that, the site got recognized by experts for good omens as well. All of the above plus easy access to the sea. That is why the Emperor further developed Hue, known in the ancient past as Cham. That was a name in use while the Chinese controlled this part of the land. From 1558 on, Hue officially became the seat of the Nguyen family. 

After centuries of violent uncertainties coming from family feuds and invaders, Hue became the capital of the Nguyen dynasty in 1802. Harsh lessons were put to use and Hue Imperial City became the most secure fortress in Vietnam’s history. And yes, elephants had an important role in the royal army known as The Guards of the Nguyen Dynasty. In total, Hue was home to 13 emperors, with the last one being the Bao Dai – Emperor of Vietnam.

The last ruling Emperor was only 12 years old when he ascended the crown. At a such young age, it is difficult to imagine the pressures of being in charge of an area we now know as Central and Northern Vietnam. Whether the young emperor liked it or not he had strong ties to the French. We now know they became more than neighbors when the French Quarter was built on the right bank of the Perfume River. Interestingly, all historical sites are located on the right side of the river. 

Hue Imperial City

Behind 6 meters high and a meter-thick wall emperor enjoyed the privacy and security of a supreme fortress. The beautiful architecture followed Feng Shui guidelines, by incorporating Five Elements and Five colors. In an enclosed area royal family accepted important guests and took part in ceremonies. Visiting ladies had to enter only through the west gate, while men had a separate entrance and fewer restraints. For example, no woman was allowed to attend ceremonies in the Temple, not even the queen herself.

Inside the Imperial City, the emperor had on hand everything needed for the successful leadership of the country. This included a large library, medical clinic, a few shrines, tea houses, gardens, palaces, waiting hall, offices, and a lake where his 1000 concubines bathed, probably a fitness and much more. Of course, there was also a lotus pond, which was essential for emperors’ traditional Vietnamese tea.

Purple Forbidden City

The forbidden part of the Hue Imperial City is conveniently named the Purple Forbidden City for obvious reasons. As one can guess, only the imperial family was allowed to be there. Well, of course, concubines and servants were allowed to walk the forbidden ground, whenever royals needed assistance. Nevertheless, servants had to be eunuchs that had heartfelt loyalty to the emperor. Entrance to the forbidden inner part of the citadel was possible from the East, West, North, and South. The South gate or Meridian Gate is the main entrance even today. Sadly, the first emperor Gia Long didn’t see the finished version of the Imperial City of Hue. By 1833 the emperor was gone and his descendant was able to see how well did skillful construction experts follow orders and mimicked Beijing’s Forbidden City. Surely, he loved the colorful exterior and intricate ornaments.

The Nguyen Dynasty

The last Vietnamese dynasty was led by the powerful Nguyen family, which influenced cultural heritage. They were the first to write things down and develop a bureaucratic system in the country. The Nguyen dynasty started to rule in 1802 when Emperor Gia Long ascended the throne and ended in 1945. In the meantime, many wars were raging and the country got invaded from near and far. Emperor Tu Doc officially signed three eastern provinces to the French in 1862. Little did he know that this was just the starting point of the French occupation. To the Nguyen emperor’s great disappointment, he was presented with a puppet role in 1884. This was the beginning of the end. The final stage of the Nguyen Dynasty came when Bao Dai abdicated the throne in 1945 and got exiled for the second time ten years later. 

Hue Imperial City Today

The difficult past didn’t leave royal premises unscarred. When the monarchy ended in 1945 the real estate was abandoned and therefore suffered heavy damage from violent acts of nature. Needless to say, the Indochina Wars didn’t help either. In 1993 UNESCO recognized the Imperial City and since then the situation has somewhat improved.

New restoration works are on the way and little by little this historical gem will hopefully shine brightly in original beauty. Already, it is hard to believe that 80% of the city was destroyed completely. Other than that, it is easy to imagine the hustle and bustle around water canals. Especially when you step through the vibrant gates and walk around up and down the dragon stairs…

Final Thought

Vietnamese history and culture have a long list and this place is on it many times. Hue certainly is anchored in the past, but with a population of about half a million, it is also looking into the future. Renewal of the mighty Imperial City looks to be a promise of returning golden days. Maybe the restoration of precious ancient capital is the painful missing link to the royal tombs. However, it can also be a reminder of the violent past Vietnamese people had to endure. Even though things in Hue Imperial City aren’t perfect there is still value in them and we warmly recommend you visit it.

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Kurentovanje

Kurentovanje is Slovenian most popular carnival event first organized in 1960. This 11-day festival has many activities on the program but its climax is on Shrove Sunday. By the way, Ptuj is the oldest documented town in Slovenia and heritage like this carnival goes great with it.

Today, Kurentovanje is an international festival. Among local traditional carnival groups, one can see others from Croatia, Serbia, North Macedonia, Hungary, Austria, Italy, Japan and many other countries. In addition to the parade, Kurentovanje also includes other cultural events. There can you see traditional dance performances, music concerts, and art exhibitions. Reasonably, with a good festival, there comes also good food. The festival has a strong culinary component, with local restaurants and food stands offering traditional Slovenian dishes such as krofi (a type of doughnut), kranjska klobasa (a type of sausage), and potica (a sweet bread filled with nuts or other ingredients). Please click here if you need an idea of what to eat when you are in Slovenia.

Doughnuts can be seen all over the city. It is tradition to make them around the carnival and give them to masqueraders. Traditionally these are filled with jam, but modern touches like vanilla cream and chocolate go with it great.

In Kurentovanje 2023 there were more than 100.000 visitors from all around the world. Make sure you will see it at least once in your lifetime. It is worth visiting it just to see the main character – Kurent.

Kurent

The main character in this carnival is Kurent, which was first documented in 1880. According to popular belief, Kurents chase away everything bad and bring good luck and happiness.

The Kurent is a traditional Slovenian carnival figure that is associated with the celebration of “Pust” (Carnival) and is believed to have originated in the eastern part of Slovenia, in the region of Ptuj. The Kurent is typically depicted as a large, hairy, and horned beast with a long tongue, wearing a sheepskin or fur coat, a belt with cowbells, and sometimes a mask. The Kurent’s appearance can vary depending on the region, but it always carries a wooden club and is accompanied by a group of other carnival characters.

The Kurent is actually a demon but it is known as a good one. They are believed to possess supernatural powers and are said to chase away winter and evil spirits, bringing about the arrival of spring and fertility. The Kurent is also a symbol of Slovenian culture and folklore, and the tradition of the Kurent has been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

During the Pust celebrations, which take place in February or March, groups of people dressed as Kurents parade through the streets, making noise with their cowbells and wooden clubs. The Kurents also visit homes, where they perform rituals to drive away evil spirits and bring good luck and fertility to the household. In addition to driving away evil spirits, the Kurent is also believed to have the power to heal and protect. Some people believe that being hit by a Kurent’s wooden club can bring good luck and ward off illness.

The exact origin of the Kurent is unclear, but it is thought to be related to pre-Christian Slavic and pagan beliefs. No matter where we look for the roots of this figure from Ptujsko-Dravsko Polje, Haloze, and Slovenske Gorice, we will find lore similar to the one carried by the Kurent.

The costume is made of sheep wool, the mask is made of wood and the tongue is made of leather, traditional cowbells are made of steel. The whole costume weighs around 40 kilos and you can only imagine how hot it must be jumping around in it. Are these jumps necessary? Yes. As tradition says, the bells are driving winter away. Louder is better. There must be exactly 5 cowbells. 5 bells are the perfect number for making the perfect noise to carry winter away. You will see also napkins around Kurent’s waist. Those are from girls who show their affection to them.

There are many rules about Kurents. One of them is “no one should see who is carrying the mask, and Kurent could take it off at home and hide it.” One of the rules is also only grown single males could wear a mask. Today we can see also kids, women, and of course married men wearing it.

Here you can see my artistic approach to Kurents in black and white. However, Kurents are the most important characters but they aren’t the only ones.

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Kurents in Black and White

Other Characters of Kurentovanje

Gypsies from Dornava

There are also Gypsies from Dornava on Ptujsko Polje. Unique local custom where almost all villagers dress up in Gypsies. They assume many different roles, such as fortune-tellers, knife grinders, musicians, chicken thieves, etc. It is certainly a great addition to the humor, which is the main feeling in Carnival.

The Devil

Devil accompanies Kurent and he makes sure the procession goes undisturbed. Pitchfork in his hands and a net for catching souls are essential. 

The Whip Crackers

Traditionally, already in the night immediately after Candlemas, boys and men started cracking their whips in the hope to chase away dark forces and evil spirits. Well, after you hear that snap you might be chased away as well.

Jürek and Rabolj

Jürek and Rabolj also known as Green George and Winter demon have this fight all over the city. Green George is representing nature and spring while the demon represents winter. Jürek and Rabolj perform a fight in which the winter demon Rabolj is beaten and banished to Donačka gora.

Rusas

Rusa is an animal that brings health and fertility to horses and other animals. It reminds me of Chinese lions without acrobatic abilities. However, they are much more fun, they play tricks and are unruly. That’s why Rusas are accompanied by a driver with a whip. 

Old Woman Carrying Her Man

This figure is recognized throughout various European nations as an embodiment of the spirits of the deceased, typically portrayed as an elderly person. A participant places a wicker basket without a bottom over their shoulders, with a rag doll of either a man or woman attached to the front. The female character’s face is usually adorned with paint or soot, and her costume typically features exaggerated breasts, while the male character carries a spear and dons an old hat.

Straw Bride Looking for Her Groom

This customary practice involves young men dressing up as females and pulling a cart with a scarecrow bride in it, to the delight of onlookers. At each home where a suitable young man resided, they would offer him the “bride,” who was, of course, exceedingly wealthy, possessing livestock, money, and numerous other assets. The “bride” was adorned with onion garlands instead of flowers.

The spearman

The spearman of Markovci in the Ptujsko Polje region is not a traditional carnival character, but rather an essential figure at peasant weddings, where he assists the bride and groom and provides entertainment for guests. In 1960, a group of spearmen led the inaugural carnival parade in Ptuj, dressed in their finest black suits, adorned with decorated hats and black boots. The spearmen danced, tossing their spears, which were decorated with multicolored ribbons, high into the air. 

Ploughmen

The tradition of ploughing (plowing) is a highly popular carnival custom, steeped in the long-forgotten rituals of ploughing the defensive magic circle around the village and the ceremonial first furrow to mark the beginning of fieldwork. In the Ptuj region, the most distinguished ploughmen come from villages including Markovci, Lancova Vas, Podlehnik, Leskovec, Dornava, and Okič in Haloze. A group of ploughmen typically consists of three pairs of “horses” pulling a decorated wooden plough, accompanied by a Kurent. The whip cracker leads the way, wielding a long whip to chase away evil spirits and signal the plowmen’s arrival.

and many others.

Kurentovanje Tips 

If you are attending the main carnival make sure to arrive early. That way you can check the town of Ptuj and Ptuj castle, find your spot where the carnival will be held and enjoy doughnuts without the crowd.

If you will be there early you can see the Kurent’s masks and clothing in the park and around the city when they are preparing.

The last tip and the most important one, have fun!

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Thung Khe Mountain Pass

The road led us across many villages even though there was no end to the long line of houses. Only the state of the marketplaces indicated we were moving further away from the Vietnamese capital. The concrete jungle changed suddenly to a green one when we reached the Thung Khe Mountain pass. Such a wonderful view glued us to the windows in an attempt to see more. Indeed, we did see more, although not what we wanted. It was a terrible accident! It looked like the lorry was overloaded with the orange bricks and in one big turn the weight turned it around. As if that wasn’t enough the heavy load fell directly on a biker, he was dead on the site. What terrible bad luck for the poor fella!

Mai Chau Valley

Twilight was setting on the Mai Chau valley when we got off the bus. Finally, some peace but no fresh air. Air was full of harmful smoke coming from burning piles of trash. Looks like there is no escaping the trash trouble. At the end of the day, whatever goods one buys all come with a package. Strangely enough, smoke fired up our empty tummies and pointed us to the first place where we were able to get some food. Once we finished our dinner the calm valley turned out to be buzzing. All of a sudden everyone was moving in the direction of our homestay. As it turned out the primary school organized a week in Mai Chau for the youngest students. And who would think that kids like to party? Every night from dusk to 10 pm little dancers were jumping to the rhythms of the Vina-House. 

Vietnamese Rural Life

So much for slow life in a country when locals were long working in the field before we finished our breakfast. Sure, it is slow for some but certainly not for everybody. However, time didn’t stop even for us. We were feasting our eyes with stunning views all around us. In the soft morning light, the lush green mountains around the Mai Chau valley looked particularly gorgeous. Just like that, hours passed and our host was back from the market. She brought back everything she needed for the big family dinner. To be part of a homestay is a special experience and not just because of the homecooked meal. One day you are a stranger and the next you are the beloved neighbor everyone likes to see.

Tree Time

One hot day we were cycling around the Mai Chau valley and found refuge under a tree. We decided to rest in the shade while the sun was high in the sky. Just when the book got interesting the old woman came to the tree. Quickly we were ready to go somewhere else if we caused any trouble. Little did we know this kind of old lady came to chill in the shade just like us. Soon the conversation started and hands helped us to better understand each other. After some laughter, she pulled a large pomelo fruit out of nowhere and generously shared it with us. Each got a piece and she laughed from her heart when she saw how much we loved this juicy and very refreshing tasty fruit. Honestly, it was the best pomelo we have ever eaten and the timing couldn’t be better. God bless her!

Off We Go

Cycling was delightful only in the flat area of the Mai Chau valley. Even though the area isn’t enormous we enjoyed every part of it, especially the flowers and colorful butterflies. However, when we were ready for more we hopped on a scooter, and off we went. For a while, we followed the map to get to the ethnic minority villages. Up there the view was even more spectacular and pristine. Right around the corner, we saw people wearing colorful traditional clothing even out in the field. Not in rice paddies, though.

Go With Your Gut

For the most part, the road was safe with a little traffic. Only at the top of one area, we had to admit to the lurking danger. It was where large limestone segments were falling from the steep slope. Without any fence or barriers to prevent erosion from reaching the road. Behind one turn so much rock has fallen that it seemed like a gravel route. No matter the time and place, our motto is: “do as you feel”. We passed that section without problems. Well, only the awkward silence was present.

Final Thought

We certainly felt lucky to witness such a beautiful place as Mai Chau. As we know nature is full of beauty, but it is on us how we see it. Obviously, society’s relationship with nature significantly changed in the past 100 years. Nevertheless, humanity still completely depends on nature for survival. How many people care how toxic by-products are affecting life on earth? Surely, we can’t save the world. That is why we embraced the romantic story of rural life in Mai Chau valley. Together with the surrounding mountains we loved it!

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Temples in Thailand

Did you know that around 95% of the Thai population identifies as Buddhists? So there is no surprise that there are more than 34,000 Buddhist temples in Thailand. However, temples have a much bigger role in Thai culture, than just worshiping places. They serve as social hubs, nowadays tourist attractions, and even schools. You might be surprised when you will see children running around the temple courtyard but don’t get fooled – there is still etiquette when visiting it. As a bonus, one can also get a sacred tattoo (Sak Yant) in some temples. More about tattoos some other time…

Etiquette at Thai Temples

Every worship place has its etiquette and Thai temples are no exemption. Well, no smoking and no drinking alcohol are the obvious ones, but there are some not so obvious rules. You should sit with the soles of your feet pointing away from Buddha images or monks. You probably won’t be able to curl your feet as Thais do, but still, you can have in mind this rule and keep the soles of your feet away. Oh, and don’t forget to take off your shoes before entering the temple. Dressing code is important as well. Your shoulders and knees must be covered while you are on the holly ground. However, monks are used to reckless tourists wearing tank tops with shorts without a handy scarf. They do tolerate this as long it is not a more important temple such as Wat Phra Kaew at the Grand Palace, Bangkok. There you will be asked to wear long pants. Boy, I already miss the dress code from Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. It is nothing bad to be nice and classy, folk.

Let’s not forget to act respectfully, don’t talk loud, and don’t take pictures with a flash. Those who are there for praying should never be disturbed. Common sense, right? Another not so obvious is keeping your head lower than the Buddha images and monks. And if you see sits reserved for monks, don’t ever use them. However, if you are a girl, never try to touch a monk or sit on the same bench as he does. Vivi learned this from praxis and it was awkwardly mirthful.

Why Visit Thai Temples?

There are many reasons for that. Let’s start with the most obvious one – sightseeing. These temples are a true masterpiece in terms of manufacturing. All the details and interesting features will amaze you. And when you thought you saw it all, you might land on a buddha statue that contains the remains of a monk inside. Monk was supposedly meditating when they “built” him in. As with any historical place, every Thai temple has its history and there are always some interesting events. If you are more into history this is your treat.

Yes, you can take photos of the temple. Just don’t disturb those who are there and never use flash. Tripod is also not recommended at historical places, though. Just keep it simple and catch all these details without disturbing anyone. So if you are a photographer freak like me, temples are a must place to go.

Last but not least, visit them for your soul. If you meditate, go there and do meditate. If you would like to have a moment to think about things that are above us, well this is your place. Think of all the people you love, send some love to them, and have a heartfelt prayer. If you can, make a merit of any kind, donations are always welcome to support monks.

How and Which Temples to Visit?

There are many arranged options for executing your temple run, but I like to visit them by myself. You have more freedom and time. I would love to see more and maybe catch some great moments. If you are there for a photo you will need some time just to catch the perfect moment without crowds. With GPS and motorbike, you are good to go. Just be careful on the road and enjoy every moment of your day. When it comes to which temples to visit… Oh man, there are too many and everyone is wonderful. Each temple is special in its own unique way, but in general the bigger it is the more is there to see. But you don’t need to go far to catch some amazing stuff. Just in Bangkok, you have some of the biggest and grandest.

Conclusion

Here, I gave you some good reasons to visit Thai temples when you are in Thailand. I hope you will like them too and if you are a photography enthusiast, I wish you some good captures. Just remember to respect the place and all the visitors.

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Historical Hoi An has numerous must-see sites that will stay with you forever. This UNESCO heritage town offers a long list of architectural treasures, culinary delicacies, and stunning instagrammable spots. With such an array of attractions, this retired port town is now very popular with tourists. In this article, we will focus on one overlooked site that might be the most important one. It is about the Tra Que vegetable gardens in Hoi An. You might think we are overreacting but there is a beginning to every story and as food oriented blog, this is our onset.

In the industrial era, gardens became creatures of the past, buried in the memory. Sadly, a lot of knowledge and family secrets are now lost due to a lack of interest in garden life and a sea of paid advice. Luckily that is not true in the Tra Que organic garden, where gardeners of all ages are working together, keeping the cultural heritage alive. Well, we sure hope for this fairy tale to be real. The location surely is absolutely perfect, right between the beach and the old town.

Tra Que Organic Garden

One day we got a chance to visit the picture-perfect Tra Que organic garden where special techniques are being used. The biggest alleys in growing 55 kinds of plants are algae and manure. Now, manure is the latest addition because there is a shortage of nearby grown algae. In addition to that, it takes almost 6 months for algae to get ready for use. With the right plant food, people get praised for high-quality, chemical-free produce growing in narrow long beds. Soil is also important and this island is blessed with fertile ground. So much so that skilled gardeners can harvest specific vegetables in 20 days by using traditional intensive methods.

Tra Que History

Throughout history, the Tra Que village was Hoi An’s growing hub. Meaning, that it supplied the local markets and restaurants with popular herbs and vegetables for over 300 years. One can quickly understand gardens were especially important in the 16th century when Hoi An was the best trading port in Southeast Asia. Now the organic garden plays more roles than it used to, making it more important now than ever. A lot has changed since Hoi An’s gardens were established. Even its name. In the 18th century, King Gia Long of the Nguyen Dynasty came to check the strange vegetable growing here. When he tried the vegetable with a piquant basil-like taste and aroma similar to camellia, he changed the name of the village. The meaning of Tra Que is translated from Vietnamese as cinnamon tea.

Tra Que Activities

First-hand gardening experience with a mentor by your side is one thing you can do. At first glance, some simple farming work can feel fun and easy but know that your mentor might have a different idea of it. It is easy to do what you are told in a well-established garden. However, plowing fallow land and figuring out the garden on your own is everything else but easy. A step forward from gardening is cooking, which can also be done at the Tra Que gardens. In the cooking class, you’ll learn about local vegetables and authentic dishes. We all know how wonderful it is to relax after lunch. Lucky for you at Tra Que gardens you can relax with an herbal massage or medicinal foot bath. Once-in-a-year opportunity is during the lunar new year when the garden gets even more attention with special festivities and activities.

Final Thought

It feels that in Hoi An everything is unforgettable. For the organic garden, we accepted the fairytale where people work with nature and not against it. You are what you eat, they say. They also say you reap what you sow and this is the tough truth. Hard reality sooner or later catches up and our global garbage collection and chemical use is scaring me. Still, it is not too late to turn the corner and go back to the natural ways. Humanity should strive for the preservation of natural treasures so that the Cua Dai beach doesn’t happen again. Beautiful Hoi An has a few issues although nothing that can’t be changed for the better.

Price and Location

As a foreigner, you are expected to pay 1,5 USD to enter the Tra Que Garden Village in Hoi An. For about 20 USD you can take part in the cooking class which happens at 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. For more details about the different packages check the offer and make a reservation. Here is the exact location for your GPS tools.

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Who Was Jim Thompson?

Jim Thompson is a name that we often came upon on our travels around South East Asia. If you remember our Mandarin Oriental Bangkok History article, he was a former owner of that hotel, and when we were at Cameron Highlands Resort, we visited summer residence, from where he disappeared into the Malaysian jungle.

Jim Thompson’s Early Days

In 1906 James Harrison Wilson Thompson was born in Greenville, Delaware, the United States. His mother was from a military family when his father was a textile manufacturer. Jim studied architecture, and between 1931-1940, designed many elite houses in New York. However, designing houses wasn’t his only passion. He had an eye for esthetics and was fond of many sleek designs. After all, he was working for Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo, where he showed some serious interest in costume design.

A Spy

When WW2 broke out, Jim worked for the Office of Strategic Services (the precursor of the CIA) which was based all over the world. At last, he was stationed in Ceylon (today’s Sri Lanka) where the preparations for invading Thailand were in progress. Thankfully, Japan surrendered and the invasion wasn’t necessary. Regardless, Jim decided to visit Thailand anyway, and here his career got a boost. 

Thailand Under His Skin

Just like many other farangs (Thai word for Caucasians), Jim fell in love with Thailand and its people. At first, he wanted to take over Oriental Hotel Bangkok, the oldest hotel in Thailand. After some disagreements about the hotel expansion, he decided it is time for a change. Although his affection for Thai culture, cuisine, and people remained strong.

In Bangkok’s small community called Ban Krua, Jim discovered an enclave of Thai weavers. He was so impressed by outstanding patterns, colors, and silk itself that he wanted to share it with the West. Until then the Western world imported cheaper machine-made Japanese silk. Jim seized an opportunity with both hands. Acting swiftly he improved the weaving and coloring process and presented silk to the leading names in fashion.

Thai Silk Company

At that point, his company named Thai Silk Company was established. When in 1951 the silk fabrics of the Thai Silk Company were used for the famous musical The King and I, things moved very fast. Suddenly, silk was trendy in all fashion pores. From Milano, New York to Paris, everyone wanted Thai silk. Thompson’s Thai silk business prospered and he could dedicate himself to his pursuit – collecting Southeast Asian art.

Jim Thompson’s House

Jim Thompson owned a large collection of historical Buddhist sculptures, traditional Thai paintings made of wood, cloth, and paper, fine china, and various objets d’art. His vast collection found a home at his new Thai home, consisting of six old teakwood houses. Houses were brought to Bangkok from Ayutthaya province, with the oldest and the most impressive dating from around 1800, a former weaver’s house from the Cham village of Bahn Krua (near Bangkok). The house itself is a gem also because of Jim’s additions like Italian marble, Belgian glass, and other western elements. On top of that, there is a lush green space connecting all six houses and providing a vibrant living space.

Jim Thompson’s Art Collection

As I said before, his silk industry boomed and he traveled all around the world due to business and pleasure. On this travels, he was always “on the hunt” for art pieces and extraordinary items. His main interest was oriental art from South East Asia. His vast collection is today under The James H.W. Thompson Foundation, displayed in Jim Thompson House Museum and neighboring Jim Thompson Art Center. Some pieces are very rare and he rescued them from extinction.

Jim Thompson’s Disappearance

Like many westerners, he liked to escape tropical heat in the Cameron Highlands. The cooler climate feels refreshing and allows English roses to bloom year-round. To this day people like to call Cameron Highlands Malaysia’s Little England. On Easter, Sunday 26 March 1967 spirits were high in Moonlight Bungalow, where Jim Thompson enjoyed his holidays.

No one noticed anything unusual when he went for an afternoon stroll. The problem appeared when he failed to return before sunset, he simply disappeared and that was it. The body was never found despite the comprehensive rescuing mission.

Even today people are guessing what happened. Some say he became tiger’s lunch, others suggest the murder, but no one really knows. His life was always shrouded in mystery. There are even some speculations that he never stopped working for the US government. The mystery was compounded after his sister was murdered in her house in Delaware six months later by an unknown assailant.

Jim Thompson’s Legacy

Jim Thompson’s company has helped thousands of Thai families generate income. For all his merits, he was awarded the Order of the White Elephant in 1962. This is the highest award for foreigners who contributed to Thailand. Today, his legacy is protected under The James H.W. Thompson Foundation. All these; Jim Thompson House Museum, Jim Thompson Farm, Silk Company, restaurants, and Art Center are part of his heritage.

A complete collection of collected art pieces are on display at Jim Thompson House Museum and near Art Center. Let’s not ignore that by visiting the home of a successful businessman we get a glimpse into his life. We can easier understand his affection for silk when we see the end products. Jim Thompson silk products are premium quality and are selling all over the world as luxury goods. We love silk and Jim Thompson will remain our very best silk fabric.

Thank you for your time and I hope I explained to you why Jim Thompson is so important for Thai culture and why Jim Thompson House Museum is a must-see here in Bangkok. Next time, I will show a few shots from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, where Vivi paraded in their silk.

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Nice Places for Staying in Prekmurje

Things turned out even better because the place we were staying at had a nest with three baby storks on their roof. There we rented a suite equipped with the authentic style of old Prekmurian houses. Kind staff told us that it’s a matter of days when little storks will be strong enough to fly and we might be lucky enough to witness their first flight. By the way, this hotel is named after storks, those iconic birds, and it gives tourism an autochthonic touch. We just love genuine locality and we found out that there is something so special that it can’t be transported anywhere.

Nature Will Amaze you in Prekmurje

Mother Nature was very generous here and allowed healing tourism to develop in this area. Scientists measured the area in 2001 and discovered around 50 healing sites in a 3-mile diameter, 26 of them being marked. Each of them has a special beneficial power that influences the strengthening of vitality.

And that is not all. There are also different sources of mineral water and you can enjoy the benefits of it in different spas. We were at Terme Banovci, Terme 3000 and Terme Lendava. Which one did we like the most? Probably Terme 3000 and their black thermal-mineral water. That black jewel has a smell of crude oil and the list of its therapeutic and beauty effects is a long one. Vivi was over the moon when she discovered it and I had to remind her that there is a limited soaking time in the black pool. Every time her answer was: “I know… Just five more minutes and I’m out.” Her begging look was my amusement of the week and I still smile when I remember that look. Judging by her glowing skin that was a good investment. At Terme Banovci we experienced our first nudist experience.

Prekmurje Has Amazing Food

It’s clear that WNFdiary can’t be without a gourmet experience. To enjoy this place with all senses, we went on the hunt for the top restaurants in this area. We ate well in quite a few places but we hit the spot when we sat at the table in Restaurant Rajh. The family runs the restaurant and they get inspiration in the surrounding environment. They transform traditional local dishes in a modern way. It really was a joy to dine there, the food was amazing and so were the staff members.

And Wine

Prekmurje has it all, even some local wine. We visited the Marof Winery and their own wine cellar. Prekmurian wine is comparable to those of more famous regions. We drank “Blau Frankische” which had a slight resemblance to the same sort from Mr. Sturm winery. At his wine cellar, we came across one of the top wines we tasted and he even shared a tale of a soil influence. It’s more difficult to produce the top-quality wine in the environment that is not ideal for the wine. It may be that this flaw brings the opportunity for talented winemakers to shine. If you do your best and not just rely on the soil and sun, the hard work must be rewarded.

I can’t say for sure if it was the energy spots or thermal spas. It may have been homey cuisine or all together but we felt revived despite the long journey. Loved the experience!

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That place is truly magnificent in every aspect. The greenery is everywhere and it makes you feel really good. We were calm and cheerful at the same time, in a week, we completely recharged our batteries for the road ahead. Nature was so inviting that we challenged ourselves and started to meditate in the morning. Gentle cowbells were an award by itself. Let Wild’n’free develop in various ways that life shows us. We managed to film some amazing scenes and learned about a shepherd’s life, nature, and their customs.

Cows all Over the Place

We had the privilege to meet a nice old man who was looking after his herd of cows and was making dairy products. At the first glimpse, we were expecting a simple guy that lives off the grid. But we were surprised at how open-minded he was and about all the knowledge he had. For the first time in my life, I heard someone talking about cow intelligence and he got us begging for more. To satisfy our thirst for new things, he told us that he had a leading cow which is 15 years old and each year she can’t wait for spring to arrive. When the sun melts away snow and ice, she gets restless and lets him know that she wishes to have a taste of that fresh, juicy baby grass. The four-hour hike is easy peasy for them. The whole herd behaves at their best. They all love their summer residence and daily routine on the plateau is simple. At sunrise, he opens the fence and they go to graze.

After a good graze, they all come back around five p.m. each day completely on their own. He’s nice to them. That’s why they are used to an afternoon treat – his home-baked bread. Sometimes it happens that there is a cow that wants to sleep in and in that case he needs to be careful how he interferes. Every cow has a different character and he learned that the hard way. Some are more delicate than others. Once he was milking one and he told her that she’s as dirty as a pig. In a second, she stopped providing milk.

She was soaking for another couple of days and in all that time he couldn’t get even a drop of milk out of her. He told us also that there are days when they take a breather. In that case, he has a secret weapon, his shepherd dog Pika. Pika knows his cows by the name and they all like to play when there are no to-do lists. When she is sent on the mission to get the herd home the hierarchy is clear. Pika knows how to bring the whole herd home or just one specific cow. It’s pretty awesome how Pika recognizes them.

Next time someone calls me a cow, I’ll be honored. Cows are more intelligent than idiots who think that they offend me just by comparing me to an animal. They are more humane than us, I love them.

If you are super excited about this magical place, here you can read what to do on Velika Planina and maybe get a great idea.

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Slovenian underground world keeps some undeniable gems out of sight, but if you’re interested in exploring them it’s easy to detect which way to go. To be able to reach the famous “Postojna Cave”, you have to head towards a small town of Postojna, located in the southwest of Slovenia. We headed in that direction in the morning because when you go beneath the earth’s surface it doesn’t matter if outside there is a beautiful day or pouring rain.

The sightseeing takes about 1.5 hours, which includes the train ride to reach the inside chambers where the tour starts. It’s nice that there are a mini train and a concrete path you must follow, but the entry fee, which is a 25€/per person is too high for what they offer. The whole attraction is very well thought out and tour guides presented the cave very thorough. Soon after the tour started, we were notified that we weren’t allowed to use a tripod for the camera.

A similar story has already happened to us, and I really don’t have a single clue why does a tripod on the concrete floor bothers them so much. I guess they are afraid of great photos we could do with our tripods, next time we will use our gimbal, hehe.

Anyway, I’ve already adjusted the settings, cursed the cave gods and took a few shots. The chambers are truly spacious and sublime and the stalagmites and stalactites of all ranges grow both from the ceiling and from the ground. To grow three inches, it takes hundreds of years, and when you get a 16-foot-high masterpiece made by nature, you start to consider time.

Once you become aware of the negligible percentage this mass grows in one’s lifetime, you realize the short period of time we contribute to the environment in comparison with nature. Something that has existed on earth longer than us, beyond doubt, deserves some respect and protection.

Inside the cave, it’s unlikely to be able to spot a living thing, except the visitors, of course, but they found a solution to put the famous resident on display. The symbol of this cave was put in an aquarium, so a few human fishes are now safe there.

Unfortunately, this zero-legged animal is endangered, as underground rivers and waterways are polluted by our pesticides, fertilizers and heavy metals. An animal that does not have a natural enemy has just got an awful one – us humans.

Our ancestors found refuge in caves around the world, but to be able to live down there and never leave the cave, it is unimaginable for me. I missed the sun even before the end of the tour, and when we came out I was grateful for the clear sky. We depend on the sun, one way or another.

Viewing the Postojna Cave was a nice experience. It is one of those one must see once in a lifetime, and I hope that the visit to places like these encourages you to appreciate the world above.

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