In the middle of the wheat field after the harvest.
Prekmurje, Slovenia’s northeastern region beyond the Mura River, brought us storks, thermal baths, a memorable meal at Rajh, and wine at Marof. On the way there, I was mostly concerned about the birds. Photographing Prekmurje’s white storks was high on our list, and I doubted they would cooperate with our plans. By the time we reached Murska Sobota, the open, flat landscape had made spotting them much easier. Our accommodation would turn out to have an even better arrangement.
Prekmurje lies on the left bank of the Mura in northeastern Slovenia. It forms part of the wider Pomurje region, which also includes places across the river in Prlekija. The distinction matters when planning a trip: Moravske Toplice and Lendava belong to Prekmurje, while Banovci, which we also visited, is in neighboring Prlekija.
The plains around Murska Sobota made the strongest first impression on us. Farther north, Goričko brings low hills, vineyards, and a different landscape. Describing all of Prekmurje as flat misses that change. For a first visit, I would use Murska Sobota or Moravske Toplice as a base and leave time to explore beyond the immediate surroundings.
Our suite took its inspiration from old Prekmurje houses, and the property even had a stork’s nest on the roof. Inside were three young birds. The staff told us they were almost ready to fly, so there was a chance we might see their first attempt. I cannot claim that we witnessed that moment, though knowing it might happen gave us another reason to keep looking up.
The hotel’s name also referred to storks. That connection to the surroundings appealed to us as much as the traditional style of the suite. A room can be comfortable almost anywhere; the local architecture and the birds overhead gave this stay a clear sense of place. If you are choosing accommodation, our experience is a good argument for looking at smaller properties as well as the larger spa hotels. A nesting stork, of course, is never a bookable room feature.
Walking, cycling, and birdwatching are good reasons to leave space between the food and spa stops. Goričko Nature Park has walking trails and cycling routes through its hilly countryside. The change from the plains makes it worth including when you want to see more than the region’s thermal resorts.
For storks, plan around the birds’ seasonal movements. DOPPS, Slovenia’s BirdLife partner, describes their usual return in late March or early April, with migration south beginning in August. Spring and early summer are sensible choices for a trip centered on watching them. Our rooftop nest was a lucky encounter, not something another traveler should expect at the same address. Keep your distance and let a longer lens do the work.
Terme 3000 in Moravske Toplice was our favorite of the thermal spas we tried on this trip. Its black thermal-mineral water was the part we remembered most. The resort distinguishes between filtered water in its pools and darker, unfiltered water in its black-water baths, so check which bathing areas your chosen ticket or accommodation includes.
The dark water had a petroleum-like smell that made it quite different from an ordinary swimming pool. Getting out was the difficult part for me. Ian kept reminding me about the bathing time limit, and my answer was usually, “Just five more minutes, and I’m out.” That exchange still makes us smile. We enjoyed the experience for what it was: time in warm water, with very little reason to hurry. Follow the bathing limits posted at the particular pool.
We also visited Terme Lendava and crossed into Prlekija for Terme Banovci. The latter gave us another story entirely, my first nudist experience at Banovci. It belongs in the memories of this trip, even though it sits outside Prekmurje itself.
Gostilna Rajh in Bakovci was the dining highlight of our trip. We ate well in several places, and this was where the region’s cooking came together most convincingly for us. The family-run restaurant worked with local traditions in a modern way, and the staff contributed as much to our enjoyment as the food. Our full Gostilna Rajh review goes into the meal in more detail.
The elderflower ice cream pictured below is from that meal, so it should not be read as a promise about the current menu. For a broader introduction to regional cooking, look for bograč, a meat stew, and prekmurska gibanica, the layered dessert with poppy seed, cottage cheese, walnut, and apple fillings. These are useful dishes to know when reading menus; Rajh was our personal highlight, not the only way to eat well here.
Marof, in Mačkovci, gave us a reason to take Prekmurje’s wines seriously. We visited the cellar and tasted Blaufränkisch, known in Slovenian as modra frankinja. It reminded us slightly of the same variety we had enjoyed at Šturm winery on a separate Slovenian wine visit. The comparison stayed with us because both visits challenged the habit of judging a wine by how famous its region is.
Our Marof winery story covers the cellar visit in more detail. If you want to include it in your own trip, arrange a tasting directly with the winery. Its published visiting hours are limited, and a quick stop without an appointment may not give you the experience you had in mind.
Prekmurje suited us because the food, wine, birds, and thermal baths gave the trip several different pleasures without demanding a packed schedule. The nest above our accommodation was an unexpected bonus; Rajh and Marof were reasons to make the journey in their own right. I would recommend two or three nights for travelers who enjoy regional food and countryside, with enough spare time to linger over either. We came home refreshed, and the warm water and good meals were explanation enough.
| Detail | Information checked in October 2026 |
|---|---|
| Location | Northeastern Slovenia, on the left bank of the Mura River. |
| Suggested stay | Our recommendation: two or three nights for a relaxed food, wine, countryside, and spa trip. |
| Suggested bases | Murska Sobota or Moravske Toplice, depending on whether you prefer a town or a spa base. |
| Getting around | A car is our practical choice for combining villages, spas, and the winery. Plan walking or cycling outings separately. |
| Stork watching | Typical arrival is late March or early April; migration begins in August. Sightings and occupied nests are not guaranteed. |
| Our spa highlight | Terme 3000 in Moravske Toplice. Check access to black-water baths when booking. |
| Dining stop | Gostilna Rajh, Soboška ulica 32, Bakovci. Check the current menu and reserve directly. |
| Wine stop | Marof, Mačkovci 35. Contact the winery to arrange a tasting. |
| Nearby extension | Terme Banovci is in Prlekija, across the Mura, within the wider Pomurje region. |
| Official destination information | Slovenian Tourist Board: Pomurje |
Prekmurje is in northeastern Slovenia, on the left bank of the Mura River. It is part of the wider Pomurje region. Murska Sobota, Moravske Toplice, Lendava, and Goričko are useful places to locate when planning a visit.
Combine thermal bathing in Moravske Toplice or Lendava with regional food, a winery visit, and time in the countryside. Our trip included Gostilna Rajh and Marof. Goričko Nature Park has routes for walking and cycling.
We recommend two or three nights for a leisurely introduction. That leaves room for a spa visit, a meal at Rajh, a prearranged wine tasting, and countryside stops without trying to fit everything into one day.
Spring and early summer are sensible times to plan a stork-watching trip. White storks usually return to Slovenia in late March or early April and begin migrating south in August. Timing varies, and an individual nest may be unoccupied.
Terme Banovci is in neighboring Prlekija, on the other side of the Mura. It can be combined with a Prekmurje trip, and both areas belong to the broader Pomurje region.
For the combination of villages, spa visits, dining, and wine described here, we would choose a car. If you plan to stay mainly at one resort, your transport needs will be different. Check local connections before building a trip around public transportation.
The Slovenian Water Agency’s description of the Mura region clarifies the river-bank distinction. See Goričko Nature Park and its walking and cycling information for countryside planning.
DOPPS: white stork migration and nesting background, including typical arrival and departure timing.
Terme 3000’s black thermal-mineral water information explains filtered and unfiltered bathing options. Terme Banovci’s Prlekija information provides regional context.
Use Gostilna Rajh’s official contact page and Marof’s visitor information for arrangements. Regional food background comes from the Slovenian Tourist Board’s pages on bograč and prekmurska gibanica.
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